We make our way through stalls and people. Our feet hit concrete in syncopated rhythm as everything else—the faces, the jeering, the stares—become blurry frames in a movie that I can’t make out.
The Market
By Nikki Celis
An acrid sourness permeates throughout the stalls of the market. Hundreds shop here during the day. Some rely on selling the produce they’ve painstakingly gathered just so they can provide ulam for themselves and maybe their families, too.
The market, Irosin Plaza, is a haven for the tao—people—in Irosin, a small municipality in the Bicol province of the Philippines. Its presence: a wide, one-story building is just as much part of the community as the people are. Sturdily built from sheets of corrugated metal, iron, and wood, the front of the market shields sellers from the midday sun. Squint hard enough, and you can see the lines of heat wriggling off in the distance.
Rice, coconuts, mangos, and apparel are some of the many things sold at Irosin Plaza. It’s a convenient and practical method to draw passersby further into its domain. Despite the taste of vinegar in the air, it’s a welcome respite from the smell of gasoline exhausted through the pipes of motorcycles and jeepneys driving through Maharlika highway, damaging lungs and congesting sinuses.
And just outside, street dogs—askal—circle the perimeter, sniffing through the musk in search of their next meal. One dog, a mixed breed with brown spotted fur and a mane riddled with ticks, eyes a stall adjacent to the entrance. The shopkeeper, a stocky woman, notices its approach. She rolls a worn playboy magazine and shoos the dog away before returning to her daily business.
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Thuck. Sweat drips down the nose of the butcher, one of many that line the stalls sprawled throughout the Irosin marketplace.
Thuck. The butcher is a middle-aged man with dark-olive skin and a slight hunch—conditioned by the nature of his work and a bad habit of slouching as he sits on a small stool, likely too minuscule to support his otherwise gaunt frame.
Thuck. There are lines above his brow like forked pathways for the sweat cascading down his face like a saltwater stream. He raises his arm up high and brings it down unto the mound of flesh and meat resting on his trusty cutting board, already stained by blood and plasma.
Thuck. The butcher slices sections off of a pig—lechon—provided by one of the suppliers of the market, likely from their own farmstead. Each cut is made to order: from the ears to the hock, everything has its use. Proven by the continuous traffic of the passersby, mounds of pork dwindle rapidly until only morsels remain. And the butcher, ever ready, with his worn, dirty wife beater and his cleaver—handle stained with age and dirt and blood—begins the cycle anew as he unhooks another cadaver and slaps the pig onto the table. Like clockwork.
Thuck. Thuck. Thuck.
*
I’m standing there, an innocent twelve-year-old boy all doe-eyed, in awe of the display. My mother, some twenty steps away, wanders the stalls of fishmongers. Much like the butcher, they go about their routine like a simulacrum of an automated factory.
Yellow fluorescent lightbulbs dimly illuminate the indoor marketplace, looming above the stalls of its occupants: the butchers, fishmongers, produce sellers, and general merchandisers. The pig butcher wipes his face with a hand towel and droops it over the back of his neck. His body, caressed by the light, glows yellow. The sweat lends itself to the silhouette of the man as if sanctified by the grace of the holy father.
Thuck. The man is too focused on his work to notice a chunk of meat fall from the cutting board, hitting the broken concrete floor. The smell of raw lechon tickles the nose of the askal, keeping to the shadows so as not to be seen. It inches closer.
Exhausted, the butcher squats on the plastic stool beside the stall. Removing his gloves, he picks up a damp sweat rag. He sighs as he wipes his face, hanging the towel around his neck, blind to the mutt snatching the morsel and scurrying to the streets outdoors. It finds a shaded corner of the marketplace’s exterior. The dog is panting, its eyes wild as it gnaws at its prize in delicious fervor, unaware of the pack approaching in the distance.
The pack growls in unison.
THUCK. This one is off-rhythm. I look at the butcher. Then, at the table. The cleaver is untouched, but the same noise—a blunt smack—echoes in the air. There’s a stillness that I feel. A tightness in my chest and a sickness in my stomach that swirls like a monsoon. Everything moves in slow motion as I scan the market for my mother.
I see her cornered at one of the fish stalls. Her face is red, eyes wide with shock as she tries to shield herself. Dead rockfish, bangus, and mackerel stare at her in condemnation. THUCK. My ears ring—tinnitus—and my body feels frozen. The fluorescent yellow illuminates four men in front of her—her brothers—one with his arm held high as if making a declaration to Mary, the Mother of God.
“Tangina mo!” a brother says.
There’s barking. A pack of dogs, mouths curled in a devilish snarl, creep past the entranceway towards something unseen.
“Bakit, ba?” mom cries. Outside of view, a dog yelps.
“I uwu mo na ang anak mo kasam’ang yung bagong jowa,” another says. “Kadire.”
“Kung mahal mo kami talaga, namanatili ka sa Canada para maka padala ka,” scowls the third brother, his arm still head high.
“Where is our money!?”
“I have nothing,” she says.
Dogs. They all look like dogs. Ravenous.
“If you don’t go back to Canada and give us the money we’re owed, you’ll die here.”
“But I have nothing,” she exclaims, “we have nothing!”
“Do you think we’re joking?”
The man places his hand on a table as shopkeepers and onlookers watch. His fingers graze a cleaver coated in blood and fish scales.
“We’re your family.”
Mom turns her head. Our eyes meet. Anak, she mouths. They see me too. Their fingers pointed and outstretched, dig into my flesh despite being so far away. Seeing them distracted, she rushes towards me and grasps my hand. “We need to go,” she murmurs.
We make our way through stalls and people. Our feet hit concrete in syncopated rhythm as everything else—the faces, the jeering, the stares—become blurry frames in a movie that I can’t make out. People are yelling and shouting and barking in the same intonation as we near the exit. I feel nothing. I am not here. But as I look at her, I can see the same pain on her face as when she discovered her marriage was born out of infidelity and that I was a bastard son to a lineage of bastard men.
0utside, mom weaves her way through motorcycles and cars. Beyond the layers of dust and dirt and smoke in the air, the evening sun blankets the streets with a hazy orange glow. There’s a rhythm here—a welcoming chaos of people attending to their business not too dissimilar to what was inside the plaza. The difference is that outside of walls, people tend to ignore you. Mom, with her bronze skin cracked from age and stress, grips my hand as if upon letting go she’d never see me again.
I remember the vague memories of her disappearing for hours—or days. Sometimes she’d bring me along. Other times she’d leave me with dad, who would sit around restlessly waiting as if he’d ceased to exist without her. I remember sitting in the passenger seat, watching my mom wail and cry and moan. As I got older, she would only do so when she had a cup of cheap red wine. My sister and I could only watch.
She’d always cry, “why is this happening to me?”
Mom flags a bright blue and yellow chrome jeepney bedecked in Filipino motifs. The handler, hanging off the vehicle's rails, motions for us to enter. She pays the 16 pesos fare and pulls me to a vacant seat right next to the rear opening. Beside us is an elderly woman holding a bag of vegetables with her left hand and fanning herself with a worn paypay. Her eyes are closed as she hums a calming tune. Across the seat are two kids around the same age as me, sipping coke from a plastic bag and straw and sharing some barbeque and puso. I look at mom again. She gives a pained smile.
“Everything is okay, anak.” Why is this happening to me?
I smile back and look through the open window on my side. We pass the market. My eyes fixate on a peculiar scene. Thuck. The askal are tearing through the remains of something obscured by their writhing bodies. Some, too hungry to think, are biting into each other, ripping, and tearing through flesh. Thuck. A few meters away, three dogs are pulling at a morsel of meat in a deadly tug-of-war. Strewn about are the injured, the broken, and the dead, largely ignored by the rest of the pack. Thuck. The jeepney drives further away from the scene as I focus on the silhouettes of people and cars.
“Are you hungry, anak? I’ll cook some fish for dinner.”
“Okay” is all I can manage to say as my body and my mind remain frozen. Later, we would leave her hometown in the claws of night, packed with only the essentials, as we disappeared into a different island and province altogether.
This would be the last time I would see her brothers, but over the years my mom would mention them. Of how they would steal her land and sell it for money and how they would verbally abuse her telling her how horrible she was as a mother. She would always laugh about it with the same detachment I seem to possess in my own adulthood. Now in her mid-fifties, she’d tell me that nothing is more important than blood. “We’re family,” she’d say. And yet I can’t help but think about the times she would cry in drunken fits, asking the same things over and over again.
Sometimes, when I tell this story, I uncover more of what I’ve tucked away, repressed for my sanity. When that happens, I distract myself. But even through all the effort, there are some things I can’t seem to shake—the pungency of the market with its ripe fruits and dead fish and meats. The sound of its people. And the sound of the butcher, with his cleaver, going about his routine with that unmistakable sound of dull metal hitting wood and the palm striking skin.
THUCK. THUCK. THUCK. Thuck. Thuck.